When Seoulites want the sea, a lot of them head east to Gangneung (강릉). Sitting on the East Sea coast in Gangwon province, it's a city of wide sandy beaches, pine forests, fresh seafood — and, improbably, really good coffee. Ever since the 2018 Winter Olympics put a high-speed train line through, it's been an easy weekend by the ocean, and it's become one of Korea's most-loved coastal getaways.
It's also quietly full of K-content moments, from drama sunrises to a certain famous bus stop. Here's how to spend your time.
Gangneung is, surprisingly, known as Korea's coffee capital — it hosts a big annual coffee festival and is home to some of the country's most famous roasters. The heart of it is Anmok Beach, where a whole row of cafés faces the sea. Order a hand-drip, take it out onto the sand, and watch the waves. It's the most Gangneung thing you can do.
Lovely any time, but a clear morning by the water is hard to beat.
Gangneung's biggest and most famous beach, a long sweep of sand backed by pines. Just behind it lies Gyeongpo Lake, ringed by a walking-and-cycling path, with the historic Gyeongpodae pavilion looking out over the water. In early April the lake is wrapped in cherry blossoms — one of the prettiest spring scenes on the east coast.
Rent a bike to loop the lake. Summer is for swimming; April is for blossoms.
A little south of the centre, Jeongdongjin is famous for having one of the railway stations closest to the sea in the world — the platform is right by the beach — and it's a beloved sunrise-watching spot, often appearing in Korean dramas and films. Come at dawn to watch the sun rise straight out of the East Sea, then explore the hilltop park with its ship-shaped buildings and giant hourglass.
Reachable by local train or bus from central Gangneung. Worth the early alarm for sunrise.
A bit north of the city, Jumunjin is a busy fishing port with a famous seafood market — but for K-pop fans, the real draw is on Hyangho Beach: the seaside bus stop made famous by BTS in their 2017 album photos. It became an instant pilgrimage spot, and there's usually a friendly queue of fans recreating the shot. As an ARMY myself, I couldn't not stop — it's a fun, only-in-Korea kind of detour.
The photo bus stop is on Hyangho Beach near Jumunjin. Pair it with fresh seafood at the market.
One of Korea's oldest surviving wooden homes, and a place every Korean knows: the birthplace of the great Joseon scholar Yi I (Yulgok) and his mother, the painter and poet Shin Saimdang — the two faces you'll find on the 5,000-won and 50,000-won notes. Quiet gardens, old halls, and a real sense of history. A nice cultural counterpoint to all the beach and coffee.
In the city, easy to reach by bus or taxi. Small admission fee.
How to get there & get around
This is the easy part: the KTX from Seoul to Gangneung Station takes only about two hours, on the line built for the 2018 Olympics. Once you arrive, the beaches, coffee street, Jeongdongjin and Jumunjin are spread along the coast, so use local buses and taxis, or rent a car to roam the shoreline freely.
If Gangneung is part of a bigger Korea trip, a rail pass keeps the train legs simple:
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The bottom line
Gangneung is the perfect easy escape from Seoul: hop the KTX in the morning, drink coffee by the sea, swim or walk the beach, catch a sunrise, snap the BTS bus stop, and breathe. It's relaxed, scenic, and just K-content-flavoured enough to feel special.
Planning more? See my guide to Korea's best small cities, the Gyeongju guide, and grab a T-money card for the buses and trains.